A Quick Guide To Istanbul

The marketing blurb describes Istanbul as the meeting point between East and West: A magnificent city perched on the Bosporus with that elusive mix of history and vibrant modern life. Just for once, the marketing men haven’t exaggerated and Istanbul really is one of the world’s great cities.It isn't cheap though, especially if you follow the crowds.

Visitors during the past couple of years have been slightly disappointed to find that many of its Byzantine and Ottoman buildings have been sealed off for renovations. The strange, burnt column of Constantine, dating back to the founding of the city in 330 AD, has been kept behind plywood while it was spring cleaned and several of the cities spectacular Ottoman mosques have been closed to visitors.

All this work has been done in preparation for 2010, the year in which Istanbul becomes the European Capital of Culture. Turkish people are famously welcoming and very proud of their history and culture and have taken the preparations seriously. It is even rumored that the Imams in the mosques have been given elocution lessons to make sure their calls to prayer come up to scratch.

The key to seeing Istanbul’s many attractions is to rise early and arrive as soon as they open. This is especially true of the Aya Sofia and the Topkapi palace in the Sultanahmet district. About an hour after opening time the tour buses arrive and the queues start and bedlam ensues. For the budget conscious traveler, getting to Sultanahmet early shouldn’t be much of a problem since most of the best budget accommodation in European Istanbul is within a stone’s throw of the walls of the Topkapi Palace. Allow a day or a couple of mornings to visit Topkapi and the Aya Sofia and spend time in the courtyard of the nearby Blue Mosque with its harmonious columns and archways.

A lesser known treasure of Istanbul that nobody should miss is the Chora Church or Kariye Camii by the city’s eastern walls. Its exterior is nothing compared to the Aya Sophia but its mosaics are in much better nick and it is too far away for most visitors to bother with.

For cheap eats, the floating, fish sandwich shops down by the bridge over the Golden Horn knock fantastic lunches. Try the pickles sold from carts in the same area (locals drink the juice after eating the pickled vegetables). Keep going from here over the bridge past all the fishermen and more cheap fish restaurants in the fish market and head up the hill to Istiklal Cadessi. This modern shopping street is on a par with any in London or Paris but is suceaper, especially if you are in the market for clothes. Istiklal Cadessi will give you a much better impression of modern Istanbul than the Kapalicarsi Grand Bazaar or the Spice market; both basically tourist traps, albeit friendly ones.

If you have ever wondered what it is like to have your ears set on fire, go to a traditional Turkish barbers and ask for the Full Monty haircut. It’s an experience you won’t forget!